Find It Now: Fiddlehead Ferns

How can you not smile when you see fiddlehead ferns?  They look like something straight out of Dr. Seuss and add a dash of whimsy to any dish.  Personally, I like to pretend they are delicious little caterpillars crawling through my pasta.

Fiddleheads are similar in taste and texture to asparagus, though a bit grassier.  Keep your eyes open for them, as they are only available in spring.  When shopping for fiddleheads, get the freshest you can find.  Avoid those that look squished or browned.  They should be bright green and pretty tightly curled.

With such a special item, I like to keep the preparation simple.  Sauteed with mushrooms and onions and served over pearl couscous, this meal lets the fiddleheads be the star.

Ingredients (for one generous serving, easily multiplied for more):
- 1 dozen fiddleheads
- 1 c. sliced cremini mushrooms
- 1/2 c. chopped yellow onion
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1/4 c. white wine
- juice of 1/2 lemon
- 1 tsp lemon zest
- 1/2 c. pearl couscous
- 3/4 c. water
- salt and pepper to taste

Directions:
- Bring a small pot of water to boil.
- Wash and trim the ends off of the fiddleheads.
- Blanch the fiddleheads in the boiling water for about 2 minutes.  Drain and cool.
- Combine the lemon zest, couscous, water, and a dash of salt and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to simmer and cook until the water is absorbed, about five minutes, then remove from the heat.
- Add the butter to a skillet with the mushroom to brown over medium heat.
- After five minutes, add the onion and dash of salt and pepper.
- When the onions are translucent and tender, add the wine and lemon juice.
- After the immediate sizzle of the liquids calms, add the blanched fiddleheads.  Toss to coat and taste for seasoning.
-  Plate the couscous and pour the vegetables and all juices over it.  Optionally top with a bit of finely grated pecorino.

Enjoy!

Chicken Ravioli, Hold the Chicken

I'm not a big fan of meat filling in ravioli.  I prefer them to be light, fluffy clouds rather than heavy dumplings.  By simmering the ravioli in chicken broth rather than boiling them in water, you get the best of both worlds: the ravioli stay wonderfully light and are infused with a strong chicken flavor.

Ingredients:
- Pasta dough: 1 cup flour, dash of salt, 1 tbsp dried herbs, drizzle of olive oil, 1 egg, 3 tbsp water.  See the steps here.
- 1 cup cremini mushrooms
- 2 cups fresh baby spinach
- 1/2 cup thick ricotta
- about 3 cups chicken broth (enough to just cover the ravioli), preferably home made
- 1 tbsp flour
- 1/4 c. grated pecorino
- fresh basil, for garnish

Directions:
- Chop the mushrooms and brown them in a large skillet with a little olive oil.
- Combine the mushrooms with the ricotta and the roughly chopped spinach.
- Spoon the filling onto the first sheet of pasta.
- Brush a little water on the pasta around the filling.
- Lay the second sheet of pasta on top and gently press down around the filling to seal them, then cut them.  Or cut them and then fill them: this tends to make them look nicer and makes it easier to get the air out, but sometimes I go for speed.
- Add the broth to the skillet at bring to a steady simmer.
- Gently place the ravioli in the broth in a single layer.
- Cook for approximately 6 minutes, then remove the pasta from the broth.
- Raise the heat to high and further reduce the broth.
- Mix the flour with enough water to make a smooth liquid, then add to the broth to thicken.
- Stir in the grated cheese and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.
- Spoon the sauce over the ravioli and garnish with fresh chopped basil.

Enjoy!

Super Mushroom Pizza

I love mushrooms on pizza.  But why stick to just piling them on top when you can substitute that boring old tomato sauce with a delicious mushroom concoction?  Combining different textures-- diced, sliced, sauteed, raw-- just enhances their delight even more.  The simple toppings and light sprinkle of cheese let the mushroom flavor shine through.  While I just used cremini mushrooms, you could use a variety for more complex flavor.

- In a large pan, combine 1 tbsp butter with 1 1/2 c. finely chopped cremini mushrooms.
- Brown over low heat for 5 minutes.
- Add 1/2 c. sliced mushrooms, 1 tbsp tomato paste, 1 tsp salt, and a dash of black pepper and stir gently for another minute.
- Whisk 1 tbsp flour into 1 tbsp cream.  Add to the pan with 1 c. stock (chicken or vegetable).
- Raise the heat and simmer for another few minutes until the sauce thickens and reduces a bit.  Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.
- Turn the heat off and allow the sauce to cool a bit.
- Spread the mushroom sauce onto your favorite pizza crust.
- Top with additional raw, sliced mushrooms, thinly sliced red onion, and crumbled goat cheese.  A dash of red pepper is great if you want a little spice.
- Bake in a 475 degree oven for about 15 minutes.  You can use a pizza stone or a regular baking sheet.  A thin spray of oil under the pizza dough ensures a crisp crust and easy removal.
- Top with fresh basil when the pizza comes out of the oven.

Enjoy!

Breakfast for Dinner

Breakfast for dinner doesn't have to mean maple syrup.  Rather, it can be a source of inspiration that you transform with more traditional dinner flavors.  With a surplus of rejected brioche and a late dinner requiring hungry haste, I threw together a savory French toast.

Slice the brioche or bread, preferable a tad stale.  Whisk together an egg (those who like eggs may want two) and a cup of milk.  Season with salt, pepper, thyme, and 1/4 tsp mustard (something good and spicy, not the yellow stuff).  Fresh herbs will impart a brighter flavor.  Place the slices in a shallow pan, pierce them all over with a fork, and pour the egg mixture over.  Let the slices soak at least 5 minutes, turning over once.

While they soak, start heating a heavy pan over medium.  Also slice some cremini mushrooms and set them aside.  Add a small slice of butter to the pan, then add the bread slices.  There should be a slight sizzle.  After about 3-4 minutes, turn the slices and cook for another 3-4 minutes.  They should be browned on both sides.  Remove them from the pan and set aside.  Add another small slice of butter, then add the mushroom to saute.  Add a dash of salt and cook until they are lightly browned.  Spoon the mushrooms over the toast and serve immediately.

Brioche French toast isn't exactly the lightest of dinners, so serve it with a simple salad with lemon vinaigrette and/or some fresh sliced fruit.  Oh, and I won't tell if you have this for breakfast-breakfast.  Maple syrup is overrated.

Ricotta & Cremini Ravioli

Fresh pasta is a joy to make.  Such simple ingredients come together between your hands in a matter of minutes into something elegant.  Unfortunately, making fresh pasta is nearly a novelty.  We've come to think of store-bought pasta as a basic ingredient.  Like buying lettuce to make a salad or ground beef to make a hamburger, we buy noodles to make a pasta dish-- rarely, if ever, thinking to buy some flour instead.  Even those who try to avoid pre-assembled, processed food still stock up on dried pasta.  There certainly is nothing wrong with that: dried pasta can be made excellently and you can easily acquire a multitude of shapes, each with their own special benefits.  However, fresh pasta-- especially  fresh ravioli-- deserves to be made now and then.  Trust me, you won't regret it.

First the noodles:

• Combine 1 c. flour with a dash of salt and make a well in the middle.
• Beat an egg together with a drizzle of olive oil (about 1/2 tsp) and 3 tbsp. water and pour in the well.
• Combine the mixture gently with a fork or your hands until it forms a dough, then turn it out onto a well-floured surface.
• Knead the dough for about 8 minutes until it feels elastic.
• Let the dough rest for at least ten minutes.
• Roll out your pasta.  Cut the dough in two equal pieces to be rolled out to as similar shapes as possible.  It should be as thin as possible without being transparent.  Lift and flip the dough often and keep it well floured to prevent sticking.
• Place the smaller of the two (if there is a difference) on a well floured surface to be filled.

For the filling (which can be made when the dough is resting):

• Combine 1 c. sliced cremini mushrooms in  a large pan with a drizzle of olive oil and a dash of salt.
• Cook the mushrooms on low heat until they are brown and fragrant, stirring as needed.
• Set aside to cool a bit.  You can chop them up more or leave them as whole slices depending on the texture you want for the filling.
• Blend the mushrooms with 1/2 c. ricotta cheese (for this recipe I prefer a lighter, more 'watery' ricotta to a very dense one-- think cottage cheese as opposed to mascarpone) and salt and pepper to taste.

To assemble and cook:

• Spoon the ricotta/mushroom mix into the first sheet in whatever size you prefer (or whatever size will fit in your stamp, if you have one).  To aid your placement you can trace the side of each ravioli onto the dough with a knife.*
• Dampen a pastry brush or your finger and moisten the sheet if pasta surrounding the scoops of cheese mixture.
• Gently drape the second layer of pasta on top and gently press it down around the ravioli pillows.  You do not want the top layer pulled taught over the mounds of cheese or you will have to stretch it to seal the ravioli (making it thinner or more likely to burst).  Try to eliminate air from the pockets as you press the dough together
• Stamp of cut out your ravioli.  If you have a stamp or a wheel cutter, it will likely also press the sheets of pasta together enough.  If you use a knife, choose a dull one.  You may also want to consider using the tines of a fork to crimp the edges to make sure the ravioli don't open.
• Bring a large pot of water to boil and cook the ravioli for about 6 minutes.
• While they cook, reheat the mushroom pan and add a dash of white wine to deglaze, then some cream, minced fresh rosemary, and fresh ground pepper.  Bring it to a boil and let it reduce as your pasta cooks.
• Plate the paste, spoon some sauce over it, and garnish with freshly torn italian parsley.

This recipe makes 12-15 ravioli.

*As an alternative to two separate layers of pasta, you can roll out one sheet, cut out squares, fill them, and fold them over into triangular ravioli.

Enjoy!

Mushroom Grilled Cheese

Within the past year or so, I have developed an intense love for mushrooms, particularly cremini mushrooms.  They have become an automatic addition to my grocery basket.  As such, I've begun adding them to all kinds of usually basic dishes.  In a grilled cheese, they add meatiness and substance, as well as a more complex flavor.

• Slice up your mushrooms.
• Melt 1 tbsp butter in a large skillet, then add the mushrooms, stirring frequently as they begin to brown.
• After about a minute, add a dash of white wine.  This is optional, but tasty.  The amount will, of course, depend on how many mushrooms you're cooking.  You just want enough for flavor and it should quickly cook off.  You don't want a lot of excess liquid in the pan.
• While those cook, prepare your bread.  I used a nice, mild sourdough to give just a bit of tang.  Don't cut the slices too thick or it will slow down the cooking later.  Lightly butter one side of each piece.
• Finely grate some gruyere cheese.  Use a microplane or a fine grater so it will melt faster.
• When the mushrooms are browned, spoon them onto one slice of bread (the buttered side should be on the outside of the sandwich).
• Top with cheese and the other slice of bread.
• Place the sandwich in a shallow pan and put under the broiler.  I prefer using the broiler as I find it melts everything together better than in a skillet, but you can use either.
• Flip once after the top begins to brown.
• When it's done, the cheese should be completely melted and both sides beautifully browned.

I served the sandwiches with a simple pile of mache with my favorite home made vinaigrette: a combination of olive oil, white wine vinegar, whole grain mustard, and herbs.

Enjoy!
- Rori